Already, July 1st, I can tell that the days are getting shorter. I wish I could say that I know the sex of each and every plant, but I just cannot tell yet on some of my plants. The “girls-for-sure” are potted up into big containers and are getting large. As far as fertilizer goes, the N.P.K. ratio is an inexact science but I’m using high nitrogen, very low phosphorus, and moderate potassium. I like liquid fish emulsion (brown, stinky liquid) but it is not cheap. An alternative is household ammonia. A quick two-count-pour into my fertilizer bucket is all it takes. I’ll mix it into the blue-powder “tomato-fertilizer” as I fill up that bucket with water. Usually, I keep the bucket full of water so that it has time to drive off the city water chlorine (by passive evaporative precipitation). The only thing bad about the chlorine is that it’ll kill the bugs that live in the soil, over time. It takes up to 25 hours of sitting in a gallon jug to precipitate out the chlorine.
At this point in time, I want “vegetative growth”, that is, stems and leaves. In about 5 or 6 weeks, I’ll want to encourage flower blooms. I want all of the plants’ energy going toward growing above ground structure… vegetative growth. Anyway, I’ve been watering in the am about a gallon of water into each plants’ container. My really big plants often need at least another 1/2 gallon in the evening. So, 1 1/2 gallons on a very sunny June day. On cloudy days, they only need 1/2 gallon each for the day. Sometimes we’ll have 2 or 3 days of cloudy weather, back to back, and I’ll decide to water ’em very lightly. This forces the roots to stretch out.. to fill the entire containers. I’m not pinching off the tips as much as I used to do in years past. But I am picking or cutting off the dead leaves. Leaves take a lot of abuse from the sun, wind, bees, etc. When a leaf is no longer viable, that is, giving more to the plant than it is taking from the plant, I cut it off. The plant will grow more new leaves. This involves “growers intuition”. This is one place that a grower’s experience and skill-knowledge come into play.
When I finally get ’em sexed…I transplant the females into a really big container (or a big hole int he ground) for the final 3 1/2 months of its life. This year I’ve been adding a full cup of fine dolomite (calcium and magnesium) to the soil for each plant.
When you transplant into bigger containers, first allow the soil in each smaller container to completely dry out…let it cake-up into a root-ball. You want to get all of the roots and all the soil to come out in one caked-up ball. As that root-ball dries up, it should constrict into one clump as it shrinks away from the container. As that soil dries out, it should constrict or shrink away from the sides of the container. Take your time to gently remove the root ball/soil from the smaller container. Plant it into the newer/bigger container an inch or two deeper than it was.
After you get that plant into another, bigger container, don’t give it any fertilizer for at least two days…you’ll burn those tender roots.
Asparagus is rich in potassium, folic acid and vitamin E viagra stores in canada that are essential for boosting testosterone. Therefore, it plays an important role to delay aging process naturally in males. viagra viagra The treatments include: Counseling Medication Surgery Counseling: It is helpful to talk to a therapist if anxiety and stress however worsens the condition. viagra generika look these up But if you are facing problems maintaining cheap viagra australia an erection enough for a couple to enjoy a sexual intercourse. The soil you are using (a mixture of store bought soil, peat moss, compost…) is plenty good enough to grow good pot in. Go easy on the fertilizers. Seed genetics probably out weigh the fertilizer in ultimate plant quality. Fertilizers such as sugar (soda pop) and beer are good for pepping up the plant. Fertilizers such as N,K,P elements are good for steering the plant to go in to a positive direction. Nitrogen is used for over-all vegetative growth. Phosphorus is generally used to induce flowering. K, potassium, is real good for root growth, so a little K is always helpful. Molasses, the cheapest form of sugar is good for over-all energy and usually has some magnesium in it, which is good for leaf-color. It helps the plant photosynthesize sunlight which is actually what this entire exercise is all about. Miracle Grow, RapidGrow, Peters, Schultz, etc all make tomato fertilizer both in powder form and liquid. Read the label. Look for the N-P-K ratio and use it accordingly. Your local nursery sells these chemicals, as well as bags of garden soil. After you have been growing pot for a few years, you’ll likely want to optimize your proceedures. I repeat, rooting powder is somewhat helpful when you are cutting clones. High nitrogen is used to “Grow Structure”. High phosphorus is used to induce flowering and to help the plant grow big, full buds. By the middle of September you’ll have to start to “flush” the chemicals out of your marijuana. You’ll have to “look forward” at your weather conditions. You’ll want to quit giving any chemical fertilizer to your plants 15-20 days before you harvest. Using plain old water for 2 to 3 weeks (with no chemicals other than beer or sugars) prior to harvest flushes or washes out your girls from the roots to the buds. A cheapskate like me, I’ll save this years excess fertilizer and use it next year. I’ll re-use all the soil and all of the containers next year.
Folks, you’ll want to end up with at least 1/2 lb of dry buds from each plant. Occasionally, a big Indica girl will yield up to 20 ounces of dry buds per plant. No matter if you use “organic” fertilizers (expensive) or chemical fertilizers, you should “flush your plants” prior to harvest. It has net been proven to me that organic is better than non-organic fertilizer. More important is the genetics, the good soil, and Colorado sunshine. The sunlight is free and is superior to electric lights. All you can do, ultimately, is to supply the basic elements…seeds, sunlight, adequate water, good soil. Oh yea, and privacy.
I’d like to hear from you-all, so send me a reply with your comments or questions.
P.S. If you are going to manually pollinate some of your girls…now is the time to plan it out. Usually during the 1st 2 or 3 weeks of July, I’ll hand pollinate one branch of a female plant so that I’ll have some seeds for next year. I use a twist-tie to mark which female branch I have dumped male pollen on to. More on this, later.
P.P.S. Label your plants… and consider that Colo. has rough weather during the late summer months. What are you going to do when it HAILS???