Here is a list of things to consider:
- Final clipping of tall shoots. We still have another month and a half of vegetative upward growth for some plants. I don’t want my plants to be taller than the fence.
- Trim off all of the brown and yellow leaves.
- Sugar is okay but don’t use molasses. I believe that it attracts cut worms and other insects. A coffee cup full of sugar into a 5 gallon water bucket…not a big mug but just a regular coffee cup.
- Continue to use high nitrogen (NKP) fertilizer every 3 or 4 or 5 days. I use a weak solution of Miracle Grow and also some household ammonia. I don’t fertilize the girls when the temps are 96 degrees or above.
- Soon, I will just use fresh, clean water to flush out the Miracle Grow (for 3 or 4 days).
- Early in August I’ll start to use a bloom booster fertilizer…Tomato Bloom Boost. The last 3 weeks of my pot grow (late October) I won’t use any fertilizer at all…basically flushing out all of the bloom booster fertilizer chemicals.
- Do the containers need a top dressing of mulch?
- Are your new growth twigs coming in “alternate” or “opposite”? In young juvenile plants the new growth will be opposite each other on the twig. As the plant matures and the days grow shorter…it’ll start to grow its new growth in an alternating fashion on the twigs. This is a “tell”. This is a sure-fire way to tell that the female is maturing and is transitioning into a “pre-flower” condition. This is a good sign. In a week or two that plant will be getting a tomato fertilizer called Bloom Boost. Look for the NPK numbers on the package. You’ll want a low N and a high P. The K number goes in to help the roots grow, so that the leaves will have a healthy green luster. Each plants’ genetics are different. Some of my more hybred plants are now starting to go into a pre-flower. Others are not. I would like a long, drawn out harvest,, but when the weather has gone fowl, I have to harvest all of them at once. This makes for a lot of work…so I do like to have 3 weeks or more to “pull” a comfortable harvest.
- Review your security measures.
- Review your weather-defenses. Got a Plan B? What if it hails?
- I’m still trying to use less water than ever before. But these girls are growing taller and wider now and so they need enough water to stay hydrated. Over-watering can lead to mold and root-rot and perhaps even stem-rot. A short drought period probably won’t kill off your girls. However, when they aren’t growing bigger and staying healthy then you are losing time. I have twice this season put two gallons of water (at one time) into each plants’ container. This floods down into the containers’ soil. Then I try to let that container dry out. First when I up-potted each female into these big containers and again last week (mid July) in the very hot dot-days of July, I flooded them. I certainly do want the plants’ roots to grow down into the containers and and completely fill the container. The bottom half of these containers may stay moist even though the surface soil is DRY. Usually, I put a half gallon of water on them in the morning and another half gallon in the late afternoon.
- If I have any left-over beer or Pepsi, I’ll throw it into the water-bucket. Don’t go over-board about this, Also, a little sugar never hurts…just throw some into your watering bucket an stir it in. That is what Coke or Pepsi is…sugar.
- And lastly, it’s not too early to begin to think about finding some clean, sharp scissors, a stack of brown paper grocery bags and some clean glass jars with screw-on lids. Another three and a half months and we’ll all be smiling.
- P.S. Some of the hybred girls are starting to flower. Lots of seed stock and almost all clones have been bred to flower early. So you have to get them to grow big enough first to make the yield worthwhile. Some of my buddies have an historical Afghan variety that is still in serious veg…just chugging along like they did 35 years ago. Smells good…looks good. Mmmm Yummy.
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